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美丽与尊贵:新罗王国的金耳环

 

璀璨绚烂的金制品或许是五至六世纪韩国新罗王国(公元前五七—-公元九三五年)墓葬中最为震撼的发现。新罗是从一个被称为金城(Saro,今韩国庆州)的小城市上发展起来的。公元四世纪后叶到五世纪前叶才逐渐成为重要国家。

Gold artefacts are among the most fascinating discoveries from the 5th and 6th century tombs from Korea’s Silla kingdom (57 BCE-935 CE). Having emerged from Saro, a small city-state in present-day Gyeongju,Silla gradually rose to prominence in the second half of the 4th and first half of the 5th century.

根据顶环的尺寸,新罗金耳环大致可分为两型:细长型和粗厚性。推测前者为男性佩戴,后者为女性佩戴。金冠冢出土的多垂饰耳环可看做是一对“二合一”的耳环,即两个耳环共用一个顶环。较短的是典型新罗细长型耳环,它分为由复合圆环组成的圆柱状中段和带圆叶状垂饰的底部。相比之下,系在同一顶环上的另一只更长、更繁复的耳环更令人叹为观止。

Silla earrings can generally be divided into two types: either slender or thick, depending on the size of the uppermost ring, the former type presumably worn by men and the latter by women. As exemplified by the 5th century earrings discovered in the Geungwanchong tomb, this extraordinary pair of earrings, with multiple dangling ornaments, can be seen as two earrings combined into one, sharing the uppermost ring. The shorter piece is typical of Silla slender-type earrings with a multi-ringed cylindrical middle element and a round, leaf-shaped pendant at the bottom.Especially striking, though, is the second dangling element, which is much longer and more complex.

公元六世纪前半叶后段,粗厚型耳环终于达到了技术和艺术的顶峰。普门洞合葬墓出土的一堆耳环便是绝佳例证。它们是目前已知最大、最为奢华的新罗耳环,直径3.5厘米,厚2.4厘米,分两层悬挂有共计37枚金叶。

Thick-type earrings reached their zenith of technical and aesthetic sophistication in the second quarter of the 6th century. The pair of earrings discovered in the bomun-dong Hapjangbun tomb is a spectacular example: not only are they the largest known Silla earrings, but they are also the most lavish, with 37 tiny leaves hanging in two tiers.

曾经生活体现新罗王国金文化精髓的金耳环在六世纪中叶时开始衰落,其社会意义与视觉美感都逐渐淡化,最终随着公元649年新罗王国全面接纳中国唐朝服饰系统而完全消失。

Earrings that earlier vividly embodied the quintessential gold culture of the Silla kingdom began to lose their significance and visual beauty in the mid-6th century and ultimately disappeared with the adoption of the clothing system of China’s Tang dynasty in 649.

摘自《美成在久》第1期,第44-49页:

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